CAMRAmble No.7 – Durham City Circular

The first branch CAMRA ramble (CAMRAmble) of 2026 took place in the city of Durham and was the first event of this kind that we have held outside our branch area. Fearing that we would have very few attendees it turned out to be anything but. Over 20 walkers enjoyed a 6 mile walk on an overcast and rain threatening day in early February.

We gathered at the spacious and comfortable Bridge Hotel which was built in the 1850’s as lodgings for the railway workers constructing the viaduct under which it sits. Only one cask ale was available, Lightfoot (4.1% a.b.v.) a refreshing golden pale ale from Theakston brewery of Masham.

The ramble commenced at noon and having passed under the enormous stone railway viaduct, which carries the East Coast Main Line, we headed towards Durham city centre. The viaduct was built between 1854 and 1857 for the North Eastern Railway and it consists of eleven arches, supported on tapering piers. The viaduct is 277 yards (253 metres) long and 76 feet (23 metres) tall. It is without doubt an impressive feature on the city landscape.

At Milburngate Bridge we descended steps to the riverside and due to the recent heavy rainfall the River Wear was very full. The sound of it cascading over the weir was almost deafening. Heading north we crossed the Pennyferry pedestrian footbridge into the Walkergate area of the city with its selection of stylish bars and restaurants. Very soon we were at the Bishops’ Mill a Wetherspoon outlet in Millennium Square. This pub takes its name from the historic mill which stood for centuries adjacent to this site. This was our designated lunch stop of the day. It was very busy for a Saturday lunchtime but luckily our group managed to find seating. I enjoyed a delicious spicy chicken pizza with a pint of one of my favourite pale ales, Three Swords (4.5%) from Kirkstall Brewery of Leeds.

An hour later our group was raring to go and we continued our walk with a 2 mile leg to the next hostelry. We crossed into the city centre, passed the bustling market place and headed towards new Elvet Bridge where we again descended to the riverside.

With the river on our right we headed upstream, initially on tarmacked paths but then on to muddy footpaths as he headed away from the city. Behind us the magnificent Durham Cathedral began to fade into the distance.

We passed under the rail arch of a former bridge. This branch line was part of the North Eastern Railway which operated from 1893 to 1931 for passengers and then until 1954 for goods. The bridge crossed the River Wear to Durham Elvet Station (demolished in 1964) which was to the east of the city centre. The bridge abutments on the riverside are still visible today.

The Rose Tree at Shincliffe is a family run roadside pub located on the banks of the River Wear. There are two separate rooms and walkers are made very welcome in the bar as are well behaved dogs. Our canine companions “Kirby” and “Oswald” settled down as we enjoyed cask ales from Yorkshire’s Timothy Taylor’s brewery; Boltmaker (4.0%) and Landlord (4.3%). I sampled the former which was in very good condition.

After a very kind member of staff had taken a group photograph in front of the pub, we crossed the river and headed north on the west bank towards the site of Maiden Castle. Then, using part of the Northern Saints Trails, we followed a path which had a very muddy and slippery climb to pass below Winnie Hill. Taking care on a precarious footpath with a steep drop overlooking Maiden Castle Wood, we eventually found ourselves outside HMP Durham. Negotiating a couple of backstreets we soon arrived at a historic multi-room pub.

The Victoria Inn has one of the best pub interiors in the North East. Built in 1898-9 the bar has a wooden floor, fixed seating and a cast-iron fireplace. The snug has original bench seating with baffles, bell-pushes and a cast-iron and marble fireplace. We sat in the front sitting room which has a bare wooden floor, small counter and traces of bell-pushes. This pub is CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2026 listed and from a choice of quality real ales I picked Ossett White Rat (4.0%) and settled down to enjoy it in very traditional surroundings.

After using an alleyway to the side of the pub, we then crossed Church Street and descended to cross the River Wear again using Kingsgate Bridge. Very soon we were standing in front of the magnificent Durham Cathedral. Due to the encroaching sunset it was illuminated and looked magical in the misty lights. The cathedral is the seat of the bishop of Durham and is the mother church of the diocese of Durham. It contains the shrines of the Anglo-Saxon saints Cuthbert and Bede.

A short cobbled alleyway took us left on to a path that descended towards Prebends Bridge. After crossing this historic bridge we turned right past “Reveal” by Richard Cole, a tall pyramidal sculpture made with repurposed stone from a turret of Durham Cathedral.

On South Street we used an almost hidden footpath to walk a very muddy alleyway and backstreets to find our next port of call the CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2026 listed Old Elm Tree. The Pub was packed with patrons enjoying the live Six Nations Rugby match between England and Wales, but luckily there was plenty of space under the covered patio area to the rear of the pub. Service at the bar was swift and I was soon imbibing a hazy and slightly orange peel tasting brew called Serenity – Cascade & Galaxy (3.8%) from Abbeydale brewery of Sheffield.

In darkness we made our way towards the starting point of today’s walk which now concluded at the multi CAMRA award winning Good Beer Guide listed Station House. This former furniture shop which opened as a pub in 2015 has an ever-changing range of beer and cider served from a cool room hatch. I was treated (thanks Doug) to a pint of a super hoppy pale ale called Different Station (5.6%) from Pentrich Brewing Co. of Derbyshire.

I congratulated my wife Eleanor on helping to lead yet another well attended CAMRAmble and thanked our good fortune that the weather had remained dry throughout the day.

Please look out for our next CAMRAmble when will again be enjoying good walking, cosy pubs and lovely ales and ciders.

Tara-a-bit!`

@MorpethWolf